Hoppin' John and the African Origins of Black-Eyed Peas into the New World

The folklore of the black-eyed pea (Vigna unguiculata), a variety of the cowpea, is that it was introduced in the New World by Africans who carried the dried legume from Africa. The African origins of the bean (yes, it is a bean) into the New World is confirmed by the U.S. Library of Congress research website, which states the bean was "[b]rought to the West Indies from West Africa by slaves, by earliest records in 1674." This also makes sense when one looks at the preparation of black-eyed peas in many traditional West African cuisines.

For example, in West Africa, crisp pan-fried bean fritters are frequently served as snacks, for breakfast and as a side dish to dinner.  In Nigeria, a popular black-eyed peas dish is called the Moi Moi (also Moin Moin), which involves a pounded and seasoned black-eyed peas into a loaf. In Liberia, black-eyed peas appear in many of their traditional soups. Upon arrival of those early Africans to the New World, black-eyed peas quickly became a staple food -- used in soups, fritters and more. This tradition survived throughout the Americas and Caribbean, including the cuisine of Africans in Brazil who simply added shrimp to the traditional African black-eyed peas fritters.

It would reasonably follow that if the food was introduced to the New World by Africans, the tradition surrounding the food was also developed by those same Africans. This would include the tradition that black-eyed peas consumed on New Year's day will bring prosperity in the new year. One of the earliest known African black-eyed peas recipes popularized in the United States was called "Hoppin' John," and was in fact served on New Year's day for good luck. Eric V. Copage provides a recipe for this traditional African dish in his book "Kwanzaa, An African-American Celebration of Culture and Cooking," provided below.

Hoppin' John

1 pound dried black-eyed peas
1 pound spicy bulk pork sausage
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 quarts water
2 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 1/2 teaspoons fresh ground white pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
4 cups beef broth, homemade or canned
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 cups long-grained rice

The tradition practice when working with dried beans or peas is to soak them overnight in cold water. Alternatively, bring the peas and water to a boil over high heat in a large saucepan. Boil for 1 minute before removing the pan from the heat. Cover the pan tightly and let it stand for one hour.

In a 4-quart Dutch oven, cook the sausage, onion, and garlic over medium heat, until the meat is cooked, about 10 minutes. Drain off all excess fat.

Add the drained peas, water, and red and white peppers to the pot of sauteed sausage, onion and garlic. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cover the pot. Cook for about 1 and 1/4 hours, until the peas are tender. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon of the salt.

To prepare the rice, bring the beef broth, butter, and remaining 1 teaspoon of salt to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add the rice and slowly reduce the heat to a simmer. Tightly cover the pot until the rice is tender. The liquid should be absorbed in about 20 minutes. Fluff the rice and transfer it to a deep serving bowl.

Pour the peas over the rice, mix well and serve immediately.

See also Black Eyed Peas Recipe instructional -- How to Make Southern Soul Food Black Eyed Peas from Divas Can Cook YouTube channel.

Resources: Everyday Mysteries -- Library of Congress: http://www.loc.gov/rr/scitech/mysteries/blackeyedpeas.html

Ghanaian Cuisine: West African Peanut Stew & Gari Foto

Photo: Barbara Baeta and guest enjoying Ghanaian cuisine at Jimmy Moxon's Black Pot Restaurant,
circa late 1960s.  Courtesy of African Cooking by Laurens van der Post (1970)

Barbara Baeta is known as one of Ghana's leading culinary experts. In 1968, Baeta started her catering business in Accra, Ghana in West Africa. Pictured above is Barbara, at far left, with guests about to enjoy a Baeta buffet at the famous Jimmy Moxon's Black Pot Restaurant in Ghana in the late 1960s. To receive an invitation to one of her dinners was a coveted prize.

The main dish pictured above is West African peanut stew, also called African groundnut stew or soup, with a simple recipe illustrated below.

 

The peanut stew is supplemented with rice. Vegetables are tiny eggplants and boiled okra.  Fruits included oranges, papaya and pineapple. The dessert includes a watermelon mokette and pineapple delight (rear, right).

The large serving dish on the left contains gari foto, a West African recipe that includes a blend of cassava meal, eggs, tomatoes and onions. This West African dish of scrambled eggs and manioc meal with tomatoes and onions, makes an excellent breakfast or brunch. It is frequently served with red beans on a platter.

Photo: Gari foto served with red beans.

A recipe for a vegetarian (without eggs) gari foto: 

• 1 medium sized onion, chopped
• 2 fresh tomatoes, peeled and chopped
• 175 g (6 oz) carrots, chopped
• 175 g (6 oz) mushrooms, chopped
• 175 g (6 oz) green peppers, chopped
• 300 ml (1/2 pt) vegetable stock or water
• Hot pepper, to taste
• 100 g (4 oz) gari (Gari is a coarse-grained roasted, grated fermented flour, made from cassava and used as a staple food in a similar way to ground rice)

Cook the onion and tomatoes in the margarine or palm oil, stirring until pulpy, in a non-stick saucepan. Add carrots and fry for a few minutes. Stir in the palm oil, then add the mushrooms, green peppers, stoc, and hot pepper. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

Mix the gari into the sauce in handfuls, stirring constantly until all the liquid is absorbed. Serve hot with a vegetable stew or fish stew.

West African Jollof Rice Recipe: Cooking with Chi Chi

Jollof rice, also called 'Benachin' meaning one pot in the Wolof language, is a popular dish all over West Africa. It is thought to have originated in The Gambia but has since spread to the whole of West Africa, especially Nigeria and Ghana amongst members of the Wolof ethnic group.

There are many variations of Jollof rice. The most common basic ingredients are: rice, tomatoes and tomato paste, onion, salt, and red pepper. Beyond that, nearly any kind of meat, vegetable, or spice can be added.

- From Wikipedia



For more of Chi Chi's West African recipes view her videos on YouTube at www.youtube.com/user/ChiChiTV.