Bahia, Brazil: South American Culinary Fare with an African Flair

Photo of Afro-Brazilian Baiana Cooking in Aracaj, Brazil

Embark on a culinary travel to the heart of Bahia, Brazil through its flavorful African-inspired cuisine.

Article by Vanessa Cross

The cuisine of Bahia, like every aspect of its culture, is heavily influced by African traditions dating back to the Africans arrivals as slaves in the early 17th century. Hardly, if ever, can you find the kind of people who enjoy cooking and eating as much as the people of Bahia, Brazil. Eating in Bahia is not merely a matter of physiological needs, but involves a complex set of rituals and beliefs.

Candomble and West African Traditions in Bahian Cuisine

An estimated forty-four percent of the total Brazilian population is of African descent, with approximately 75% of Bahia's 2.5 million occupants being of African descent. Salvador de Bahia is often referred to as the African soul of Brazil. It has kept the African traditions of rich food, music, capoeira, and religious alive.

Candomble (pronounced Can-Dome-Blay) is derived from the religious traditions of the Yoruba of West Africa. It is a religion that has persevered and continues to flourish in Bahia and many parts of Brazil. One of the most common Candomble gifts is food. During Candomble celebrations, Bahian dishes are placed on a special alter for ceremony and then shared with participating family and friends. This is the religious aspect of Bahian gastronomy and is one of the many pretexts used for having loved ones over to celebrate and savor fine Bahian fare.

While the following video documentary is available in the Portuguese language only, it clearly visually illustrates the traditional intersection between Afro-Brazilian food and religious life.

African Inspired Cuisine in Bahia, Brazil

Photo of Bahian Xinxim de Galinha dish

Acaraje, caruru, xinxim and vatapa are four distinct Bahian dishes that have related West African version of the cooking recipes. Acaraje is bean dough fried in palm oil and filled with prawns and hot sauce. Caruru is shrimp cooked in oil with seasoning and peanuts. Vatapa is a custard of bread, milk, peanuts, fish and shrimp cooked in special palm oil seasoning. Xinxim de galinha is primarily a chicken fricassee in nut sauce. It includes chopped chicken, shrimp, palm oil, and seasoning. Other African inspired dishes include efo and moqueca.

Xinxim de Galinha Recipe
  8  boneless skinless chicken thighs
2 tsp olive oil
1  tomato, seeded, chopped
1  white onion, chopped
1  bunch cilantro, chopped
1 tsp  dende oil*
2 tbs coconut milk
1 garlic clove, minced
     Juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp finely-chopped peanuts

Cut chicken into 2-inch chunks and brown with oil in skillet, 6 to 8 minutes. Add tomato, onion, cilantro, dende oil, coconut milk, garlic and lemon juice. Sprinkle with ground peanuts. Cook over low heat 25 minutes before serving hot.

* If dende oil (palm oil) is not available, peanut oil may be substituted but it will have a different flavor.

This recipe yields 4 servings (appx. 256 calories per serving).

The Essence of Afro-Brazilian Food Preparation

The essence of Bahian cuisine is palm oil and pepper. The dende, or palm oil, extracted from the palm tree, originally from the African west coast, gives typical dishes an attractive reddish yellow color and delicious smell that is said to "open your appetite".

Have a tall glass of water ready before you begin eating an Afro-Brazilian meal. The pepper is hot. The chili pepper typically used in traditional Afro-Bahian cuisine is the malagueta (Capsicum frutescens).  It is said to get its name from the unrelated melegueta pepper from West Africa (Zingiberaceae). This hot cayenne like pepper is said to motivate the stomach, liver and intestines to function better, facilitating smooth food digestion.

Photo of Malagueta (Capsicum frutescens) Pepper

While the main influence on Bahian cuisine comes from Africa, there are also strong influences from the native population to the region, as well as from the Portuguese who colonized Brazil. Palm oil from Africa, olive oil from Portugal and native Brazilian herbs blend together to create the unique flavor of Bahian food. If the essence of Bahian cuisine is the palm oil and pepper, the secret is the spices. Also, the most distinctive native Brazilian contribution is the cassava flour called 'gari', which is used in many side dishes that are made to accompany stews and soups.

Baianas and Bahian Food Vending

Photo of an Afro-Brazilian Baiana

In Bahia, there is also the business of food. The baianas are women dressed in flowing skirts and blouses, typically predominately white in color. They shoulder their trays full of small appetizers and sweets along the streets of Bahia for local natives and tourist consumers. They are all over the lively streets of Bahia selling acaraje, cocada and many other delicacies. At lunchtime the baianas beat by far the competition of the fast-food houses.

Bahian Drinks

Nothing compliments a Bahian meal like the Brazilian national drink, caipirinha. Caipirinhas are made with cacha (raw, white spirits), lemon and sugar. Guarana is also an uniquely Brazilian soft drink. There are also a variety local fruit juices. If you have any room left, wrap up an Afro-Brazilian meal with a demitasse or one of the many homemade cordials, many of which are made from local tropical fruits.